the côte bleue, marseille's discreet coastline
From L'Estaque to Martigues: coves, pine woods and railway viaducts above turquoise water.
a coastline protected by the marine park
The Côte Bleue Marine Park protects the seabed between Marseille and Martigues: posidonia meadows, sea bream, salema, rainbow wrasse. The water stays clear almost all year round. Snorkelling works straight off the rocks; in summer, the Carry-le-Rouet marine reserve can be visited with a guide.
the calanques of the côte bleue
Five calanques within reach of the house, from the most inhabited to the wildest.
niolon
The inhabited calanque: cabanons, a fishing harbour, swimming from the rocks. Our village.
la vesse
A 5-minute walk from Niolon. Two small pebble beaches, smooth rock, quiet on weekdays.
figuerolles
Between La Vesse and Méjean, a rocky cove earned on foot along the customs officers' path.
méjean
Semi-wild: a pocket harbour lined with pines, a cove beneath the viaduct. Lovely by kayak or paddleboard.
l'érevine
A rocky islet facing a cove of green water, with no buildings at all. Reached on foot from Méjean, along the coastal path.
the côte bleue train
The line links Marseille Saint-Charles to Miramas along the coast: the ride follows the sea from end to end, viaduct after viaduct. Niolon stop 300 m from the house, about 20 minutes from Marseille, several trains a day.
the neighbouring villages
Carry-le-Rouet for the market and the shops, Sausset-les-Pins for the seafront, Ensuès-la-Redonne where the trails to Méjean begin, L'Estaque on the Marseille side. Everything is reached by train or car in under 20 minutes.
staying on the côte bleue
Holiday rentals are rare in the inhabited calanques. Calanca, a village house in Niolon, sleeps up to 6 people 5 minutes from the water: a base to roam the whole Côte Bleue, with or without a car.