A whole weekend in Niolon allows what 24 hours cannot: leaving the village and taking the measure of the Côte Bleue, calanque after calanque. Here is the plan we give our guests, day by day.
Day 1: Niolon and its nearby calanques
The first day happens on foot, no car needed.
- Morning: arrival, shopping done on the way down (the Le Rove supermarket is on the road). A first swim off the harbour rocks, then snorkelling at the Vesse calanque, 5 minutes away on foot.
- Midday: lunch at La Pergola, the terrace at the water's edge.
- Afternoon: the Niolon fort loop, an easy 1 h 30 walk with views over the whole bay. Back through the village, ice cream at l'Ancre.
- Evening: pétanque, drinks at La Canne Bambou, dinner at the Auberge du Mérou (book ahead; the shuttle comes up from the car park on request).
Day 2: the customs officers' path to Méjean
The main event of the weekend. Set off in the morning from Niolon station, towards Méjean along the customs officers' path: about 10 km and 4 hours of walking, blue waymarks, a rocky trail above the water.
Along the way:
- The Vesse calanque, still quiet at that hour.
- Figuerolles, a rocky cove with no buildings.
- L'Érevine and its islet facing the cove: the swimming stop of the route.
- Méjean, its pocket harbour lined with pines, for the picnic packed at the grocery.
The return is on foot for the committed, or by train from Ensuès-la-Redonne station: that is the Côte Bleue's advantage, the rail follows the trail. Closed shoes, 1.5 to 2 litres of water per person, a hat: the path is exposed.
Day 3 (the bonus): Marseille or the market
If the weekend stretches to Monday, two options by train from the village station:
- Marseille: Saint-Charles in about 20 minutes. Le Panier, the Vieux-Port, lunch in town, back late afternoon. Check the time of the last evening train.
- Carry-le-Rouet: the Provençal market, a swim on sand at the Rouet beach, an easy ride home.
The point of a proper base
A weekend like this only works if home base keeps up with the rhythm: early breakfast, post-hike showers, dinner on the terrace. That is the house's job: an equipped kitchen, two bathrooms to take turns in, south-facing terraces to relive the day at sunset.
Every swimming spot and trail is detailed in the local guide, and the short version of the stay is in 24 hours in Niolon.